The Flux ↝

How to graft an Instax Mini onto your vintage camera

Introduction

This is a slightly more technical companion to Ihagee Parvola x Instax Mini Restomod, for anyone who is interested in knowing exactly how it came together. It's short because it was not actually that complicated once I had the donor. I encourage anyone with an old 127 camera to give it a go for themselves. No specialist equipment or knowledge was necessary to build a fully working prototype.

Many thanks to Nik for gifting us the camera, and Noah for inspiring me to build it.

The Goal

Turn the Ihagee Parvola from a vintage shelf decoration into a functional camera that can be used without the need for specialist film or facilities, within a sub-£100 budget. The intended user is a BFA student with a strong photo manipulation practice, using both physical interventions with prints and negatives, and digital.

The Camera

The Ihagee Parvola 1350 is a circa 1930's German "pocket" camera with a lovely double-concentric helical barrel extension mechanism. It has a fixed focus infinity lens and a unique macro focusing capability via the second helical extension, allowing for close up photos and portraits. The example I have is equipped with a Compur leaf shutter and Carl Zeiss Tessar lens with a unique 6.5cm focal length. This was not an original configuration, and it's unclear when the lens was installed. The Parvola uses 127 film, and the 1350 model has a 40x65mm film gate, approaching the size of a medium format camera.

Ihagee Parvola

Options

The Donor

Instax cameras have a mechanism to hold the film cartridge against the film gate, eject the exposed film and apply the correct pressure to develop the image properly. Finding a donor that will fit the Parvola is the first challenge.

An article by someone planning to make a medium format Instax back identified the ideal donor - the Tomy KiiPix.

Tomy KiiPix case

The KiiPix is entirely manual - the instax mechanism is driven by a hand turned knob. This removes an entire class of problems from the build, with no need to trigger a motor to eject the film or convert it to manual, like Steve Lloyd's Yashica. It is also very cheap, with a second-hand one costing me £12 shipped.

Stripping the KiiPix back to just the mechanism was very straightforward - a handful of screws held it together and the film handling mechanism remains a single unit after removing the rest of the device.

Film Plane Adjustment

The KiiPix mechanism doesn't mate perfectly to the back of the Parvola. There is some interference at the top and bottom edges of the camera body, and the film plane of the Instax mechanism is slightly recessed to the outer plane of the mechanism. This produces about 4mm of rearward offset from where the 127 film would sit and where the Instax film sits. Managing this offset is the second challenge.

size of the two film gates

I naively thought that needing to push the film plane back 4mm on a fixed focus lens would be the problem that doomed this project. Luckily the Parvola's unique barrel extension mechanism made this a non-issue.

The lens of the Parvola can be calibrated and minor focus adjustments made by loosening it from the barrel and using a focusing screen with an open shutter to push it back into the barrel so that the image is now focused on the Instax film. But that's not necessary as the barrel extension can do the same thing, acting as a focusing ring.

I taped a piece of tracing paper to the bare KiiPix mechanism, used some elastic hair bands to attach it to the Parvola and was able to get a reasonably sharp focus by adjusting the barrel extension.

Tracing paper focusing screen

focusing screen image Seeing the image through the lens for the first time

A happy side effect of this movement of the film plane is the image from the lens now fills the entirety of the Instax film, giving an edge-to-edge image instead of being masked by the Parvola's film gate.

Assembly

The mechanism was made mostly lightproof with some compressible foam tape, and the whole back of the KiiPix was strapped onto the Parvola with hairbands and elastics for the first test. It could use some better elastics, but this worked way better than you'd expect.

Sticky foam tape

The contraption - a toy camera strapped to a vintage camera

Shutter and Aperture Settings

The ISO of Instax appears to be equivalent to 800. The Compur shutter has a 1/300th setting as it's fastest speed, but that is probably optimistic for a century-old clockwork device. The shutter is fully open at f4.5. and is marked to f32. With the shutter at max speed and tightest aperture, it's just within range of the film speed, with headroom for indoor and lower light shots.

First Photos

There will need to be some experimentation on shutter and aperture settings, but the results from the first cartridge proved out the concept. Better light-proofing is needed, and the elastic band attachment method certainly needs to be replaced with something less prone to misalignment. All tasks for Mark II.

The first photo - an almost black and white image of sun against a wall

These ones were processed digitally after being captured from the Instax film with a 35mm DSLR, and show the character which the combination of camera and film imparts.

another photo - a nicely decorated room with wooden floors and two large French doors at the end. The walls are covered in books

An almost abstract photo with a barely visible centre and two overexposures flaring from either side of the print